A Champagne house’s prestige

Non-vintage vs. prestige cuvée. What’s the difference?

Many producers release a top Champagne, known as its prestige cuvée. These are only made following an exceptional harvest and, as a result, exist in much smaller quantities, and at much higher prices. Salon Le Mesnil, for example, has released just 39 vintages since it was first produced in 1905.

Mixed Rosé Champagne (Louis Roederer Rosé 1999 & 2002, Moet & Chandon Rosé Non Vintage, Laurent Perrier Rosé Non Vintage, Lanson Rosé Non Vintage). Estimate: £700-800. 31 bottles and 48 x 20cls per lot.

A Champagne house’s prestige cuvée will often have its own name: Louis Roederer calls its prestige cuvée Cristal, while Pol Roger produces Sir Winston Churchill — a vintage Champagne that aims to imitate the robust build of the famed politician. Vintage Champagnes have the potential to evolve in bottle and develop honeyed, crème brulée complexity.

The vast majority of all Champagne, however, is non-vintage. This type of Champagne is made not from a single harvest, but from a blend of several years, resulting in a consistent house style. For this reason, non-vintage Champagnes will be undated. Moët & Chandon is the best-known non-vintage Champagne.

Is a prestige cuvée worth it?

Top Champagne will have the right balance of acidity and intensity of flavour. Prestige cuvées such as Cristal or Krug really are incredible, offering an amazing harmony, and very long persistence (the length of time their flavour lingers in the mouth) and ageability that allows the Champagne to evolve with bottle age. A good prestige cuvée really is exceptional — you can certainly taste the difference. 

Mixed Moët & Chandon (Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Collection 1955 & 1999, Imperial Non-Vintage, Ice Demi-Sec Non-Vintage, Nectar Imperial Demi-Sec Non-Vintage). Estimate: £500-600. 55 bottles per lot.

Magnum or miniature? If in doubt, go big

At 1.5 litres, a magnum is twice the size of a standard 75cl bottle, and half the size of the 3-litre jeroboam. Although more expensive, larger bottles have the benefit of tending to age more slowly, with less oxidation and more freshness. One reason for this is that the ‘ullage’ (the distance between the bottom of the cork and the champagne liquid) is proportionally smaller in a larger bottle — meaning less oxygen gets into the bottle during disgorgement; approximately half compared to a standard bottle.

Another advantage of bigger bottles, of course, is that they are better for parties.

When collecting, consider two key factors

The Champagne house and vintage should guide your buying. I recommend new collectors try a range of champagnes to determine what they like. Consider buying different Champagnes: for example, a Pol Roger, a Krug, a Bollinger and a Cristal. Different houses age their Champagnes for differing periods of time on the dead yeasts that cause the second fermentation in bottle and the fizz (lees). The minimum requirement for non-vintage Champagne is 12 months on the lees, and for vintage three years, but in practice the top Champagnes are aged for much longer. This has an effect on the flavour profiles, with complex brioche and toast from the long period of ageing on the lees (called autolytic ageing).

Once you’ve settled on your preferred house, you can consider vintage. Although top champagnes are only produced in exceptional years, some vintages are better than others. In 2003, for example, atypical hot weather led to few houses releasing a vintage. In 2002, however, nearly every house released a vintage — a clear indicator of an exceptional year. 1996 was also a great year for vintage champagne. 

Mixe

d Champagne in Jeroboams (Krug Grand Cuvée, Bollinger Non-Vintage, Veuve Cliquot Non-Vintage, Moët & Chandon Non-Vintage). Estimate: £350-450. 6 jeroboam-champagne/burgundy per lot.

Familiarise yourself with key terms

In Champagne the levels of residual sugar, called dosage, are key, with the lowest being Zero Dosage, through to Extra-Brut, Brut, Extra-Dry, Sec, Demi-Sec, and Doux. The most common styles, however, are Extra-Brut, Brut and Demi-Sec.

Zero Dosage has no dosage sugar added to it, and is more austere and lean — perfect as an accompaniment to sashimi. At the opposite end are Demi-Sec, with between 32 and 50 grams of residual sugar per litre, or Doux, with more than 50 grams. Both are ideal for those who prefer sweeter Champagne, and are perfect with dessert, or at the end of a meal.

Occasionally, Champagnes will be labelled Blanc de Noirs or Blanc de Blancs, indicating the colour and variety of the grapes used. Blanc de Noirs is made from Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier, while Blanc de Blancs is made purely from Chardonnay. Blanc de Noirs typically are firmer structured wines with red-fruit flavours. Blanc de Blancs demonstrate finesse, elegance and citrus flavours.

Should I consider Rosé?

Rosé champagnes can be excellent, though are often more expensive, because they are produced in smaller quantities. 

…and what makes Rosé pink?

Normal Champagne can be made from red grapes Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The Champagne remains clear because the grapes are pressed off the skins very quickly — before the pigments (anthocyanins) in their skins can colour the juice pink.  

Rosé Champagne acquires its colour through one of two methods. In the first, the juice is soaked with the skins of red grapes for a short period prior to and during the first fermentation — a technique known as saignée, from the French for ‘bleed’. This method is preferred by the top vintage producers.

In the second method, a base white wine is mixed with normal still red wine before the second fermentation in bottle, resulting in champagne with a pink tinge. Although it is illegal for other still rosé wines to be made in this way, it is permitted for Champagne. Many non-vintage producers prefer this method for its consistent colour.

Champagne doesn’t have to blow the budget

It really depends on your budget, and occasion, but it is possible to buy a vintage Champagne from Christie’s for as little as £30.