Non-vintage vs. prestige cuvée. What’s the difference?
Many producers release a top Champagne, known as its prestige cuvée.
These are only made following an exceptional harvest and, as a result, exist in
much smaller quantities, and at much higher prices. Salon Le Mesnil, for
example, has released just 39 vintages since it was first produced in 1905.
Mixed Rosé Champagne (Louis Roederer Rosé 1999 & 2002, Moet &
Chandon Rosé Non Vintage, Laurent Perrier Rosé Non Vintage, Lanson
Rosé Non Vintage). Estimate: £700-800. 31 bottles and 48 x 20cls per lot.
A Champagne house’s prestige cuvée will often have its own name: Louis
Roederer calls its prestige cuvée Cristal, while Pol Roger produces Sir Winston
Churchill — a vintage Champagne that aims to imitate the robust build of the
famed politician. Vintage Champagnes have the potential to evolve in bottle and
develop honeyed, crème brulée complexity.
The vast majority of all Champagne, however, is non-vintage. This type of
Champagne is made not from a single harvest, but from a blend of several years,
resulting in a consistent house style. For this reason, non-vintage Champagnes
will be undated. Moët & Chandon is the best-known non-vintage Champagne.
Is a prestige cuvée worth it?
Top Champagne will have the right balance of acidity and intensity of
flavour. Prestige cuvées such as Cristal or Krug really are incredible,
offering an amazing harmony, and very long persistence (the length of time
their flavour lingers in the mouth) and ageability that allows the Champagne to
evolve with bottle age. A good prestige cuvée really is exceptional — you can
certainly taste the difference.
Mixed Moët & Chandon (Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Collection 1955
& 1999, Imperial Non-Vintage, Ice Demi-Sec
Non-Vintage, Nectar Imperial Demi-Sec Non-Vintage). Estimate: £500-600. 55
bottles per lot.
Magnum or miniature? If in doubt, go big
At 1.5 litres, a magnum is twice the size of a standard 75cl bottle, and
half the size of the 3-litre jeroboam. Although more expensive, larger bottles
have the benefit of tending to age more slowly, with less oxidation and more
freshness. One reason for this is that the ‘ullage’ (the distance between the
bottom of the cork and the champagne liquid) is proportionally smaller in a larger
bottle — meaning less oxygen gets into the bottle during disgorgement;
approximately half compared to a standard bottle.
Another advantage of bigger bottles, of course, is that they are better for
parties.
When collecting, consider two key factors
The Champagne house and vintage should guide your buying. I recommend new
collectors try a range of champagnes to determine what they like. Consider
buying different Champagnes: for example, a Pol Roger, a Krug, a Bollinger and
a Cristal. Different houses age their Champagnes for differing periods of time
on the dead yeasts that cause the second fermentation in bottle and the fizz
(lees). The minimum requirement for non-vintage Champagne is 12 months on the
lees, and for vintage three years, but in practice the top Champagnes are aged
for much longer. This has an effect on the flavour profiles, with complex
brioche and toast from the long period of ageing on the lees (called autolytic
ageing).
Once you’ve settled on your preferred house, you can consider vintage.
Although top champagnes are only produced in exceptional years, some vintages
are better than others. In 2003, for example, atypical hot weather led to few
houses releasing a vintage. In 2002, however, nearly every house released a
vintage — a clear indicator of an exceptional year. 1996 was also a great year
for vintage champagne.
Mixe
d Champagne in Jeroboams (Krug Grand Cuvée, Bollinger Non-Vintage,
Veuve Cliquot Non-Vintage, Moët & Chandon Non-Vintage). Estimate: £350-450.
6 jeroboam-champagne/burgundy per lot.
Familiarise yourself with key terms
In Champagne the levels of residual sugar, called dosage, are key, with the
lowest being Zero Dosage, through to Extra-Brut, Brut, Extra-Dry, Sec,
Demi-Sec, and Doux. The most common styles, however, are Extra-Brut, Brut and
Demi-Sec.
Zero Dosage has no dosage sugar added to it, and is more austere and lean —
perfect as an accompaniment to sashimi. At the opposite end are Demi-Sec, with
between 32 and 50 grams of residual sugar per litre, or Doux, with more than 50
grams. Both are ideal for those who prefer sweeter Champagne, and are perfect
with dessert, or at the end of a meal.
Occasionally, Champagnes will be labelled Blanc de Noirs or Blanc de
Blancs, indicating the colour and variety of the grapes used. Blanc de Noirs is
made from Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier, while Blanc de Blancs is made purely
from Chardonnay. Blanc de Noirs typically are firmer structured wines with
red-fruit flavours. Blanc de Blancs demonstrate finesse, elegance and citrus
flavours.
Should I consider Rosé?
Rosé champagnes can be excellent, though are often more expensive, because
they are produced in smaller quantities.
…and what makes Rosé pink?
Normal Champagne can be made from red grapes Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.
The Champagne remains clear because the grapes are pressed off the skins very
quickly — before the pigments (anthocyanins) in their skins can colour the
juice pink.
Rosé Champagne acquires its colour through one of two methods. In the
first, the juice is soaked with the skins of red grapes for a short period
prior to and during the first fermentation — a technique known as saignée, from
the French for ‘bleed’. This method is preferred by the top vintage producers.
In the second method, a base white wine is mixed with normal still red wine
before the second fermentation in bottle, resulting in champagne with a pink
tinge. Although it is illegal for other still rosé wines to be made in this
way, it is permitted for Champagne. Many non-vintage producers prefer this
method for its consistent colour.
Champagne doesn’t have to blow the budget
It really depends on your budget, and occasion, but it is possible to buy a
vintage Champagne from Christie’s for as little as £30.
