lunes, 23 de mayo de 2011
BoChef - Meat Guide
"organic" and "free range"
The terms "organic" and "free range" are not standardized and are subject to different interpretations. Generally, organic poultry is raised without antibiotics or growth hormones and is given organically grown feed. Note that in order to carry the "organic" label, poultry must be certified, a process that costs time and money. Some small producers, therefore, do not apply for certification even though their products may conform to organic standards.
Poultry allowed access to the outdoors can be labeled free-range. Some say the exercise and more varied diet of free-range birds translates to more flavorful and better-textured meat than that of cage-raised birds.
Always handle raw poultry carefully to avoid cross-contamination of food-preparation surfaces and utensils, and never allow it to come into contact with foods that will be eaten raw or only partially cooked.
It is also a good idea to reserve one cutting board for raw poultry, meats and seafood and another for produce and to wash the boards thoroughly with hot, soapy water and dry well between uses.
Kosher birds are processed under rabbinical supervision. Their processing differs slightly from that of regular birds and is the reason why kosher birds often have a few feathers still attached (they should be pulled out before cooking). Kosher birds are treated with salt; although they are rinsed before packaging, the salt does penetrate into the meat. For this reason, if you are following a recipe that calls for brining, do not use a kosher bird – the finished dish may taste overseasoned.
Pork ranges in color from very pale pink to a rosy hue. In general, the more color, the better the flavor. Pale pork, a sign of poor quality, signals that the meat will lack flavor and dry out easily. The marbling and exterior fat should be perfectly white, never yellow, and the surface of the meat should be springy and moist, not wet. When it comes to freshness, let your nose be your guide.
Fear of trichinosis once dictated that pork be cooked to an internal temperature of 160ºF. Trichinosis is actually killed at 137ºF, and therefore the widely accepted doneness temperature for pork is now 145ºF. Well-marbled cuts such as the shoulder will maintain their juiciness when slowly cooked to a higher temperature, but leaner cuts such as the loin will dry out quickly when cooked above 145ºF.
Marbling is the most crucial attribute in high-quality pork and indicates how tasty the meat will be. In the United States, consumers' avoidance of pork due to a concern for dietary fat prompted conventional producers to breed leaner pigs. However, lean pork has little flavor, and the lack of marbling can make it dry and chewy.
Heirloom breeds such as Berkshire, Duroc, and Yorkshire have become more widely available. Due to the pigs' varied diet, their meat is rich tasting, juicy and tender. To determine the best choice for your needs, ask your butcher about whether a pig was feedlot or pasture-raised as well as what it was fed: grain or grass and wild forage.
Top grades of lamb are prime and choice. Prime has the greatest marbling and is reserved for restaurants, high-end retailers and farmers' markets. Choice has less marbling, but is still high quality.
Lamb comes from animals that are less than 1 year old. "Baby lamb" is less than 10 weeks old and weighs less than 20 pounds. "Spring lamb" weighs 20 to 40 pounds. Tenderness is determined more by the lamb's age than by marbling. Young lamb is pale pink, tender and mild. As the lamb ages, the meat darkens, gaining character and flavor.
Grain-fed beef produces richly flavored meat with abundant marbling, but the animals often live in close quarters in feedlots and require antibiotics to remain healthy. Consumers and chefs have rediscovered the taste and benefits of beef from cattle raised on grass. Some ranchers follow a hybrid process: the cattle feed on grass, which is healthier for them and better for the environment, and then, just before going to market, the cattle are "finished" on grain to add the rich marbling of grain-fed beef. Be sure to ask your butcher whether the beef offered is grain fed or grass fed.
The top three USDA grades you are likely to see in stores are prime, choice and select. The labels reflect the degree of marbling (the ratio of fat to lean meat), color and maturity.
Prime beef, the highest grade, is from young cattle and contains the most marbling.Choice beef lacks the degree of marbling found in prime but still produces a number of tender and juicy cuts.Select is a label applied to meat that is particularly lean.
Take the tempereture
The lower temperatures in each range apply to roasts, the higher temperatures to steaks. Roasts are removed from the heat at a lower temperature because the temperature rises more during a longer resting period. Cooking beef until well done is not recommended.
Very rare: remove from heat at 110º-120ºF; ideal temperature after resting: 120º-125ºF.
Rare: remove from heat at 115º-125ºF; ideal temperature after resting: 125º-130ºF.
Medium-rare: remove from heat at 125º-135ºF; ideal temperature after resting: 130º-140ºF.
Medium: remove from heat at 130º-140ºF; ideal temperature after resting: 145ºF.
Medium-well: remove from heat at 145º-160ºF; ideal temperature after resting: 155º-160ºF.
Cooking by the cut
Best for stir-frying: tri-tip, top sirloin and flank steaks; filet mignon.
Best for panfrying: rib-eye, New York strip, T-bone, and porterhouse steaks; chuck (burgers).
Best for grilling: rib-eye, skirt, sirloin, and strip steaks; chuck (burgers, kabobs).
Best for roasting: stuffed flank steak; bone-in rib-eye (standing rib roast); whole tenderloin.
Best for braising: short ribs, brisket, shank, and chuck.
viernes, 13 de mayo de 2011
La nouvelle cuisine
La nouvelle cuisine
La nouvelle cuisine sigue viva, así lo indica uno de los creadores de la Guía Gault Millau, el crítico gastronómico Christian Millau.
arece que en realidad Christian Millau desea mantener viva la llama de la nouvelle cuisine, quizá porque fue uno de los críticos que estableció en 1973 el decálogo de la nouvelle cuisine. Recordemos que Henri Gault y Christian Millau, artífices de la Guía Gault Millau fueron los creadores del término culinario nouvelle cuisine, este se comenzó a aplicar en el trabajo culinario de los hermanos Jean y Pierre Troisgros, Paul Bocuse y Michel Gerard.
La nouvelle cuisine se caracteriza especialmente por la forma de presentar la comida, la estimulación visual es uno de sus principales pilares, aunque también era importante que los platos lograran estimular el resto de sentidos. Las especias, hierbas, caldos o salsas adquirieron un papel fundamental pero su utilización resultaba más liviana, en definitiva las creaciones resultaban más ligeras pero no por ello ofrecían menos sabores. De hecho, estos se remarcaban mucho más ofreciendo sabores puros obtenidos a través de la combinación, algo distinto a lo que se practicaba en la alta cocina en la que los sabores se ‘enmscaraban’.
En la actualidad existe un debate sobre si se ha abandonado o no la nouvelle cuisine, evidentemente Christian Millau cree que no, en nuestra opinión esta tendencia se mantiene viva en esencia ya que se encuentra integrada en la cocina vanguardista. Actualmente la cocina de vanguardia se ofrece en grandes platos y con porciones minimalistas, aspectos que destacaban en la nouvelle cuisine. No hay duda de que en su momento esta tendencia destacó por encima de la cocina clásica considerándose un desvío muy radical que iba en contra de los planteamientos culinarios de la época, pero su evolución dio paso a nuevas tendencias, la denominada gastronomía molecular o cocina tecnoemocional, la nouvelle cuisine se encuentra en el recuerdo y es un paso más en la evolución culinaria.
Christian Millau manifiesta que la nouvelle cuisine se practica diariamente en todas las cocinas del mundo y el trabajo de Ferrán Adrià nada tiene que ver con ella, que lo que él hace es otra cosa, llevando la creatividad a cotas muy altas. De hecho, el crítico indica que Ferrán Adrià no ha creado un movimiento, ya que muchos cocineros le copian sin desarrollar nada fruto de la creatividad, evidentemente esto es algo en lo que no estamos de acuerdo.
La Nouvelle cuisine
La presentación de la comida y el atractivo visual son fundamentales en la nouvelle cuisine. La comida tenía que estimular los cinco sentidos, especialmente la vista. Se dejó de delegar la tarea de la presentación de la comida en los camareros, como sucede en la haute cuisine (alta cocina); los platos se servían ya presentados desde la cocina. Se puso mayor hincapié en el uso de hierbas y especias y las salsas y caldos usados eran más livianos. Se dejó de usar también la harina como espesante de salsas, y se reemplazó por salsas más livianas espesadas con yemas de huevo, manteca y crema. La nouvelle cuisine creó platos livianos con sabores distintivos, combinando sabores en lugar de cubrirlos, y resaltó también un servicio de mesa menos entrometido. Los platos simples pero elegantes y los sabores puros son las principales características de la nouvelle cuisine.
Existe un debate sobre si se ha abandonado o no la nouvelle cuisine. Muchas de sus características, especialmente la preferencia por sabores frescos presentados en platos livianos, fueron asimiladas en las corrientes principales de la cocina de restaurante. Aunque el énfasis de la nouvelle cuisine en servir porciones pequeñas (en grandes platos) muchas veces hizo que fuera objeto de burlas en la cultura popular, su influencia en la alta cocina e incluso en restaurantes más cotidianos es muy importante.
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